Unlike the over-touristed golden route of Tokyo –> Kyoto –> Osaka, the Nagano region is perfect for meanderers with its stunning mountain scenery and an authentic pace of life. In this 8-day Nagano winter itinerary, you can ride a gondola above the snow-capped Japanese Alps without a ski pass, climb a 16th-century black castle, and eat the best soba of your life. Nights are best spent in an onsen, warming up after a day of exploring in the cold. This itinerary strings together three very different towns into a week-long winter route.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase—at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own and based on my personal travel experiences.

At a Glance

• Trip length: 8 days / 7 nights

• Bases: Hakuba (3 nights) → Matsumoto (2 nights) → Nagano City (1 night) → Tokyo (1 night)

• Getting around Trains and local buses only

• Who this is for: Anyone who wants a well-rounded winter Japan experience beyond Tokyo

Table of Contents

• Getting to Nagano from Tokyo

• 8-day Nagano Winter Itinerary

  • Day 1-3: Hakuba

  • Day 3-5: Matsumoto

  • Day 6-7: Nagano

  • Day 7-8: Tokyo

• Frequently Asked Questions

• Cost Breakdown

Getting to Nagano from Tokyo

You have two main options: shinkansen or snow shuttle.

Option 1: Hokuriku Shinkansen (Recommended if going to Matsumoto or Nagano City first)

The fastest and most flexible way into the region. The Kagayaki Shinkansen runs non-stop from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station in approximately 80 minutes. The Hakutaka service makes a few stops and takes around 100 minutes. One-way reserved seats cost approximately ¥8,450 per person.

Do you need to reserve a seat? Yes! I saw long lines of people at the counter trying to get on the shinkansen, and that experience just seems horrible. I used the Shinkansen for my route from Nagano to Tokyo and reserved my seats after I landed (a week in advance).

Option 2: Nagano Snow Shuttle (Best if flying into Haneda and heading straight to Hakuba)

If you are flying into Tokyo and your first stop is Hakuba’s ski resorts, the Nagano Snow Shuttle is a stress-free door-to-door alternative that I recommend. It is a direct charter bus from Haneda Airport straight to your hotel in the Hakuba Valley. No train transfers, and no lugging bags through busy stations.

• Route: Haneda Airport Terminal 3 → Hakuba hotels

• Duration: ~5.5 hours, with 2 rest stops (including a free oyaki tasting at Oyaki Farm if travelling during the day)

• Cost: ¥12,750 per person (as of January 2026)

Check out my full Snow Shuttle guide here:

8-Day Nagano Winter Itinerary

Days 1–3: Hakuba

Hakuba is a ski valley in the northern Japanese Alps, best known for its powder snow. But even as someone who is a nervous wreck trying to get off the snow lift, I found three days here to be well worth it, as the mountain views, onsen, and general atmosphere hold up without skis. Please keep in mind that food and lodging are priced like a ski resort, because it is one.

For the full day-by-day breakdown of what to do, where to eat, and how to get around, check out my detailed Hakuba guide here.

How to Get Around in Hakuba

Getting around is easy with the Hakuba Valley Shuttle Bus, which connects all the major resort areas. Tickets are ¥800 online (must use within one hour) or ¥1,000 cash on board. A night bus also runs for ¥500. Otherwise, I usually just walked.

Where We Stayed in Hakuba: Hotel Moegi in Happo-One

This hotel is close to lifts and restaurants, onsen on site, and runs a shuttle to and from the bus stop on arrival and departure days. No elevator, stairs only. Around ¥25,000–¥35,000/night

Days 4–6: Matsumoto

Matsumoto is a castle town that is quieter and more lived-in than Hakuba, with excellent food and one of the most beautiful castles in Japan. Two days here gives you a full castle-and-culture day, followed by a day trip to the Edo-era post town Narai-juku. For my detailed 2-day Matsumoto itinerary, check out my post here.

Getting to Matsumoto from Hakuba

We took the JR Oito Line directly from Hakuba Station, no reservations needed as all seats are unreserved. The journey involves one transfer at Shinano-Omachi Station, where you switch trains to continue to Matsumoto. The first leg takes about 30 minutes, there's roughly a 15-minute wait, and the second leg is about an hour; totalling around 1.5 hours. Trains aren't too frequent, so make sure to check the timetable before you leave. We only found out about the platform switch in Shinano-Omachi from overhearing other passengers as Google Maps didn't flag it, so keep your ears open at Shinano-Omachi and look for the departure board.

Where We Stayed in Matsumoto: Onyado Nono Matsumoto

Onyado Nono Matsumoto has an indoor and outdoor onsen, sauna, cold bath, late-night soba/ramen, breakfast buffet, and free apple juice and tea downstairs. Highly recommended. Note: no-shoes policy with tatami mats throughout; shoes go in a locker at check-in.

Days 6–7: Nagano City

Nagano City is the region’s main transport hub and home to Zenkoji Temple, one of Japan’s most important Buddhist temples that draws in millions of visitors every year. Compared to Matsumoto and Hakuba, Nagano City feels more urban, but the temple precinct and the snack-lined Namikase Street approach make it a worthwhile stop before heading back to Tokyo. For the full Nagano City guide, check out my post here.

Getting to Nagano City from Matsumoto

From Matsumoto, you could take the Shinonoi Limited Express, which takes about 50 minutes through beautiful snow-covered countryside. The local Shinonoi Line is also available for roughly half the price and takes about 1.5 hours. Both are comfortable; I opted for the latter.

Getting Around Nagano City

We relied on local trains and were able to walk around pretty easily.

Where We Stayed in Nagano: Hotel Metropolitan Nagano

The Hotel Metropolitan Nagano is connected directly to Nagano Station on the second floor, which is extremely convenient for an early departure the next morning. If you drop luggage before check-in, get a storage slip from the front desk.

Day 7-8 — Departure & Return to Tokyo

If your shinkansen home isn’t until the afternoon, use the morning for a slow breakfast near Nagano Station, a final oyaki from Namikase Street, or any last-minute souvenir shopping.

Returning to Tokyo from Nagano

The Hokuriku Shinkansen from Nagano Station back to Tokyo Station takes 80–100 minutes. Reserve your seat in advance, especially on weekends and during holidays. Unreserved cars can fill up on busy travel days.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to speak Japanese in the Nagano region?

Hakuba during ski season has a large international community and many English-speaking staff. Matsumoto and Nagano City require more Japanese or Google Translate, but you can absolutely get by.

Do I need snow boots or special gear?

Yes. Waterproof boots with a solid grip are essential, especially in Hakuba. Traction cleats, which are sometimes sold at convenience stores and sports shops, could be useful for icy temple steps and shrine paths. Pack a warm layering system, base layers, hat, gloves, and a good wind-resistant outer layer for the chilly winter air.

Is Hakuba worth visiting without skiing or snowboarding?

Yes absolutely. The gondola views at Iwatake, the mountain scenery, the onsen, and the general atmosphere make it worthwhile for non-skiers. With that said, food and accommodation in Hakuba carry ski-resort prices, so factor that into your budget.

Should I get a JR Pass?

It depends on your broader Japan itinerary. I found this not worth it for this itinerary alone, also because we used the snow shuttle to get from Tokyo to Hakuba.

Cost Breakdown (Per Person, Excluding Flights)

Prices are approximate, based on costs as of early 2026. The approximate travel costs (without airfare) including food, hotel, and attractions could range between $1200-$2000 per person. Personally, I was able to stay under $1,500 per person.

Some money-saving tips:

• Convenience stores (Lawson’s in Hakuba, 7-Eleven and FamilyMart elsewhere) are great for cheap breakfasts

• Lunch sets at most restaurants cost noticeably less than the same dishes at dinner

• Buy Hakuba Valley Shuttle Bus tickets online (¥800) rather than cash on board (¥1,000)

Other Travel Planning Resources

📲 Stay Connected with eSIM

🗺️ Hakuba Travel Map: Sights and Food

🗺️ Matsumoto & Nagano Travel Map: Sights and Food

Related Posts

Eats in Matsumoto

Soba at Soba-dokoro Kippo

On our way to Matsumoto Castle, we enjoyed a soba lunch set at Soba-dokoro Kippo. There are many soba places in Matsumoto, so if you’re having a hard time choosing one, just go here!

We came right at 11 AM opening time on a weekday, and right after we ordered, a large group of Japanese people who looked like they were at a convention took up the rest of the seats at this restaurant. Guess we came in at a good time!

There are two soba lunch sets you can choose from, and at the time in February 2026, they were 1250 yen per person. My partner chose the oyakodon (egg and rice) set while I chose the tempura set. My favorite, with some bias, was obviously the tempura set. The crisp of the tempura was on point, and it pairs wonderfully with the fresh soba noodles. Both lunch sets came with pickles and cheesecake as well. This joint is cash only, so make sure you prepare accordingly.

Sushi… cause why not

Matsumoto is landlocked, and I’m fairly sure most of the sushi restaurants were flying their fish in. Regardless, I wanted to get sushi anyway, and so we stopped by すし屋左衛門, which was run by a really friendly elderly couple.

The front door was unassuming and easy to miss if you cannot read Japanese. We ordered a three-box set for dinner, which came with 3 pieces per drawer. We started with a sperm sac appetizer and even had a seared scallop gifted as an extra present. My favorite was the medium fatty tuna, while my partner enjoyed both the raw and cooked forms of scallop.

Upon hearing that we were going to Nari-juku, the lady handed us a tourist pamphlet to help us with our travel. They gave us a keepsake magnet to take home as well! While we were the only ones in the restaurant that night on a weeknight, their kind service made the whole experience enjoyable.

Shinshu Salmon at an Izakaya

I wanted to experience a local izakaya experience, but I had also seen Shinshu salmon on a lot of menus and wanted to try it. We walked past this 信州ゴールデン 新館 izakaya, and it felt like the right busy-with-locals vibe, AND it had the Shinshu salmon I wanted. They had tablets that we could use to order dishes as we wanted, and the food came out really quickly.

My favorites were the Shinshu salmon sashimi and the Matsumoto variety of fried chicken thighs, which were super juicy. I wrote about what the Shinshu salmon tastes like in my 3-day itinerary post here.

Drinks at the Main Bar Coat

I came for the whiskey, really, but ended up getting cocktails at Main Bar Coat. While there is a small cover charge to go in, it comes with an appetizer. Drinks are strong here, but tasty! And the atmosphere was a nice, cozy speakeasy vibe, perfect for a couple or small group.

Eats in Narai-juku

Toji Soba at Kokoro-ne

There are plenty of soba options at Narai-juku, but we settled on going to Kokoro-ne to try their Toji Soba.

While the toji soba tasted great and warm in the winter, I think the one-time experience was good enough for me. I’m just a cold soba noodle girl. Regardless, I recommend the experience, especially if you are visiting while it’s still cold outside.

Coffee & Dessert

After a warm bowl of hot soup, I needed some coffee and dessert. We visited the Izumiya Cafe, which had a selection of pour-over coffee, cafe au lait, and a few desserts to choose from. We ordered both the cheesecake and the apple pie, and the apple pie was the clear winner!

While the cafe was definitely tourist-priced, it was a super cute restaurant with a relaxing vibe and modernized but charming aesthetics. The seats in front of the window looked like a great spot to people-watch as it faces the main street of Narai-juku.

For more of my adventures and travel tips for Matsumoto and Narai-juku, check out the following posts:

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase—at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own and based on my personal travel experiences.

Contents of this Guide:

This guide starts with two days in Matsumoto, including a day trip to Narai-juku, and one day in Nagano.

Matsumoto & Nagano 3-Day Itinerary

• Day 1: Matsumoto Castle & Yayoi Kusama Exhibit

• Day 2: Narai-juku

• Day 3: Zenkoji Temple

Frequently Asked Questions

Matsumoto & Nagano 3-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Matsumoto Castle & Yayoi Exhibit

Nawate Shopping Street

On the way to Matsumoto Castle, you will run into a cute traditional shopping street that begins on the banks of the Metoba River and is famous for its frog theme. At one point, there were many Kajika frogs by the Metoba river, but while you may not see a real frog, you’ll find an obsessive number of frog statues throughout the street1. It was early in the morning when we went, so even though the stalls weren’t fully opened yet, we had the streets mostly to ourselves, and the unbothered neighborhood cat.

For lunch, we decided to try a soba joint nearby. There is no shortage of soba places in Matsumoto, so pick a place that looks good, and you’ll most likely be pleased.

Rather not pick? See where I ate here!

Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle is one of the oldest surviving original castles in Japan. The castle is nicknamed the Crow Castle because of its black exterior. When we visited, there was some construction going on to fortify the moat around the keep, which was interesting to see up close.

I highly recommend paying to go inside the Great Keep. Upon entering the castle, you will be directed to take off your shoes and put them in a plastic bag to carry throughout the self-guided tour. The hallways were wide enough to fit samurai in full armor. The ceiling and steep staircases are another matter, as we constantly had to watch our heads and take turns using the stairs. Even though the black castle never saw any war action, there is an exhibit inside with a collection of guns, other weapons, and armor.

After exploring the keep, it is relaxing to walk around the castle grounds. Don’t miss the Uzumibashi Bridge! It’s a great spot for a photo or to sit on the park bench and eat a snack.

Official Matsumoto Castle Website: https://www.matsumoto-castle.jp/eng/about

Matsumoto City Art Museum - The Yayoi Kusama Collection

Next, head to the Matsumoto City Art Museum. Our primary reason for the visit was to see the Yayoi Kusama collection exhibit, a Japanese contemporary artist known for her polka dot sculptures and infinity mirror rooms. As a child, Kusama had experienced a lot of hallucinations, which had greatly influenced her art. Reading about her lifelong battle of being tormented by her own mind was especially heart-wrenching. Kusama’s vivid art was how she handled that darkness.

Tip: You can choose to only pay for the permanent collection exhibition, which is where you will find Kusama’s work. The special exhibition is a separate ticket. To see what the special exhibition is at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art, check their official website below.

Matsumoto City Museum of Art: https://matsumoto-artmuse.jp/en/visit/

Matsumoto Castle at Night

If you have the energy, swing back to the castle after dinner. The illuminated Crow Castle reflected in its moat is something else.

It might be seasonal, but check the Matsumoto Castle Instagram page or website to see if they are hosting a nighttime illumination. If yes, come right back to Matsumoto Castle to watch a ~5-minute light show with beautiful music. During the time we went, this event was free and absolutely enjoyable.

Matsumoto Castle Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/matsumotojo_office/

Where to Drink in Matsumoto

We spent two nights in Matsumoto, so we tried something different each night. One night we went to a local izakaya, and the other night we went to a cocktail bar named Main Bar Coat.

Main Bar Coat has a cozy speakeasy vibe with an array of whiskey and cocktail options. There is a cover charge, but it includes an appetizer that was actually delicious. The drinks were tasty, and they definitely don’t skimp on the pour. It’s a good place for a date or a very small party.

If you’re looking for something more low-key, roll into a local izakaya. We walked past a random one that seemed busy with locals and decided to give it a shot. If they have it on the menu, try the shinshu salmon sashimi, which is a local landlocked trout that reminded me of ocean trout.

Day 2: Narai-juku

From Matsumoto Station, the train to Narai-juku is about an hour. The train ran about every ~1.5 hours in the winter and daylight is limited so you’ll want to plan a little bit on when you want to go. Bring cash for train tickets and dining at Narai-juku.

Narai-juku

Narai-juku is an Edo-period preserved village that is part of the Nakasendo highway. The post town was successful because the Torii Pass is considered one of the most difficult sections of the Nakasendo trail. Occasionally, the village will have some events, which you can find posted by the Narai-juku Tourist Association through this link.

We strolled the streets and perused the stores and cafes that were open. It was the middle of the week in winter, so most of the shops were closed. I’ve seen pictures of how crowded it can get in the height of summer, and I’m sure the experience will be much different then. For lunch, I tried the Toji Soba, which I would describe as a hot pot-style soba. While it was definitely an interesting experience and brought warmth to my belly in the winter, I would definitely prefer the zaru soba in the summer!

Kiso-no-Ohashi Bridge

Meander down a side street behind the main road, and you'll find Kiso-no-Ohashi, an arching wooden bridge made out of cypress. During the winter, the bridge was closed off due to ice, so the visit may not be worth it. During the fall, the autumn leaves make a nicer backdrop.

We caught the next train back as the sun was beginning to set, fully satisfied with the half-day we spent at Narai-juku.

Day 3: Zenkoji Temple

From Matsumoto, Nagano is a quick train ride that is around 50 minutes on the limited express. For half the price, you could take the local train, which would take about 1.5 hours. I rode on the Shinonoi Line, and at 8:30 AM in the winter, there was plenty of seating and space for overhead baggage. Along the journey, we passed by what looked like rice paddies blanketed in snow. The flat fields stretching out between the mountains were beautiful either way.

If you’d rather skip the walk from Nagano Station to Zenkoji, the Nagano Dentetsu line is a convenient option. The line runs underground beneath Nagano Station on the Zenkoji exit side. Just head down the escalator after you exit the station, and you’ll find it. The ride itself is only 4 minutes, but factor in waiting for the train and a 12-minute walk from the station to the temple, and you’re looking at a similar total time to just walking the 25 minutes from Nagano Station directly. At 210 yen each way, it’s cheap either way.

Tip: The cash machines on the Nagano Dentetsu line did not recognize new 500 yen coins or newer bills at the time of our visit in 2026. We had to exchange cash with a train staff member before we could buy tickets.

Zenkoji Omotesando & Namikase Street

Explore the Omotesando, which stretches from the Zenkoji Temple to Nagano station. Before long, you’ll see Namikase Street right before the main entrance of Zenkoji. The streets are lined with renovated storehouses that were previously stalls, cafes, and old-fashioned shops selling Nagano’s famous local treats. My favorite treats:

• Oyaki: a stuffed bun made with a wide variety of fillings.

• Apple pie: Nagano is famous for its apples, and is the top apple-producing prefecture in Japan. I liked the one at Beni-Beni.

• Roasted sweet potatoes: This is my guilty pleasure, just a simple treat that is best eaten while it’s still warm

If you still have room after snacking, check out とんかつ専門店 からり for pork katsu. The meat melted in my mouth, and it came with free refills on cabbage and rice.

Zenkoji Temple

Zenkoji is an impressive Buddhist temple built in 642 AD and rebuilt several times since. It was so magnificent with the giant gates out front, and it was more ornate than I expected inside, with elaborate decor and golden statues of Bodhisattvas lining the walls. There are experiences and activities you can partake in, such as daily morning prayers, sutra copying, and more.

At the entrance to the main hall, you’ll find Binzuru: a statue known as the “patting Buddha”, rubbed by visitors in the spot where they wish to be healed. Throughout the Zenkoji temple grounds, there are areas set up where you can burn some incense and place the incense stick into the jokoro, an incense burner. Then you “bathed yourself” in the smoke by waving it towards yourself and pressing your hands together to pray for something.

We were observing people coming to pray when we saw a middle-aged man hurriedly come to the incense stick stand, throw in a couple of coins, and say a really quick prayer before walking away. I thought that maybe he was in a rush to catch a train.

Then I saw him again, this time at Jizo, a bodhisattva associated with children, travelers, and the deceased, and I saw him do the same thing. He threw in some coins from his pocket, and then he fell onto his knees in front of the statue with his incense stick. Whatever he was going through and whatever he was praying for, he really needed. It made me hold back some tears and choke up seeing him so desperately pleading.

After the temple visit, we spent a little more time scouring Namikase Street on our way out before grabbing some drinks near Nagano Station.

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Frequently Asked Questions

When to Visit Matsumoto and Nagano

I traveled to Matsumoto and Nagano in February. The weather was cold, and the air was crisp. Puffy jackets were a must at nighttime. While cold in the winter, the castle looks stunning against snow-covered mountains.

From what I’ve read, spring brings cherry blossoms around Matsumoto Castle and the Zenkoji grounds. Autumn brings golden ginkgo and red maple. Summer is warm and lively.

How many days do you need in Matsumoto and Nagano?

Two days in Matsumoto (with Narai-juku as a day trip on day two) gives you a comfortable pace. The city also has excellent food, particularly soba, and a walkable downtown that rewards slow exploration. The castle at night, especially, is something you'll want the time to do properly.

We weren’t interested in the Jigokudani Monkey Park, but if that was part of your plan, then you’ll need at least 2 days in Nagano.

How to Navigate Matsumoto and Nagano

To make it easier on your trip planning, I am sharing the locations that I spoke about in this blog post (and some extras) that might be helpful for your trip to Matsumoto and Nagano in the Google Map below:

Where to Stay in Matsumoto

I decided to stay at an onsen hotel and found the Onyado Nono Matsumoto. I highly recommend this place to anyone exploring Matsumoto, as it exceeded all expectations and had great amenities.

✅Pros: indoor & outdoor onsen, sauna room, cold bath, late-night soba/ramen, free apple juice/tea downstairs, cute room, luggage wheel cleaner, great hotel staff

❌Cons: None.

Some people might be uncomfortable about having to put their shoes away in the shoe locker. The hotel has tatami mats, so they have a no-shoe inside policy.

🏨Book Onyado Nono Matsumoto | 📽️Video of my room

Where to Stay in Nagano

I decided to stay near the train station for convenience and stayed at the Hotel Metropolitan Nagano, which was directly connected to Nagano Station. It’s an older hotel that has everything you would need for a short stay.

✅Pros: conveniently connected to Nagano Station on 2F, has restaurants inside, quiet, comfortable, has elevators and is near a Don Quijote!

❌Cons: Luggage storage experience was a bit bumpy. Just make sure you get a luggage storage slip from hotel staff if you are dropping off your luggage before check-in, and everything should be fine.

🏨Book Hotel Metropolitan Nagano

Other Travel Planning Resources

📲 Stay Connected with eSIM

Related Posts

This is not a “best of” list. It’s a working map: places I researched, returned to, or kept as reliable fallbacks while I was out and about. You can open it so that it overlays on the Google Maps app on your phone, and you can save the list to your account as well. Instructions on how to use the Google Map List can be found in this post.

What’s Inside the Travel Map

The Google map list is organized with tags, so you can focus only on what you need when you click on a certain tag:

• 🍜 Food: Restaurants, Izakayas, and places I ate at for meals or reliable standbys.

• 🚊Transit: Train stations and key transit points I used or noted for efficient travel.

• ☕️ Coffee & Bakeries: Coffee, tea and pastries

• 🍶 Bars & Wine: All izakayas can be considered drinking establishments, but this is when the focus is on the drink more than the food

• ⛩️Worth Seeing: Landmarks, neighborhoods, viewpoints, street art, and other places worth wandering past to at least take a photo

• 👣Walks & Wanders: places to stroll or meander by

• 📷 Camera Out: Don’t forget to take out the camera

Link to my map here: Explore Matsumoto & Nagano. Note this map was made when I travelled in the winter of 2026.

If you want additional information, feel free to check out some of my other blog posts that will go through some of these locations in more:

Saving the List

When you open the link to the Google Map List that I share, you can click “Save List”.

Using the List

Once you have it saved, you can easily pull up the Google map list again by clicking on “You”.

Then select the Google map list you wish to open:

I recommend sorting by distance for the most useful view.

To filter, click on any tag. For example, clicking "🍜 Food" will narrow the list down to all food location saves.

How the List is Organized

The Google map list is organized with tags, so you can focus only on what you need when you click on a certain tag. Below is a sample of some of the tags I generally make:

• 🍜 Food: Restaurants, Izakayas, and places I ate at for meals or reliable standbys.

• 🚊Transit: Train stations and key transit points I used or noted for efficient travel.

• ☕️ Coffee & Bakeries: Coffee, tea and pastries

• 🍶 Bars & Wine: All izakayas can be considered drinking establishments but this is when the focus is on the drink more than the food

An example post with a Google Map list to get you started:

Quick Comparison: Hakuba vs Niseko

Hakuba at a Glance

• Location: Nagano, ~3 hours from Tokyo

• Snow: Heavy, reliable powder across 18 ski areas

• Vibe: Quiet Japanese mountain town with real local character

• Best for: Anyone building a broader Japan itinerary on top of skiing/snowboarding, non-skiers/non-snowboarder

Niseko at a Glance

• Location: Hokkaido, ~2 hours from Sapporo

• Snow: World-class powder, some of the deepest in Japan

• Vibe: Louder, busier, a little unhinged, which honestly, is not necessarily a bad thing.

• Best for: Serious powder chasers, people who want full resort energy

Location & Getting There

Hakuba is in the Nagano prefecture and is easy to access from Tokyo via bus, train, or car, and can easily fit into an itinerary that involves Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nagano, etc. We took a 5+ hour direct bus from the Haneda airport but you could also get there in 3-4 hours if you were just taking the train.

Niseko is on the northern island of Hokkaido. We flew into Tokyo and transferred on a local airline to New Chitose Airport in Sapporo, then took a bus to Niseko. You could easily pair a trip to Niseko with a few days in Sapporo.

Snow & Riding Experience

I asked my travelling partner this question, and he said hands down the snow experience was much better at Niseko. Granted, the timing of the weather makes a difference; and that’s out of our control.

Annual snowfall reported by the resorts and tourism offices put both destinations at nearly the same, with Niseko having a slightly higher volume at times. Beyond volume, it’s also a quality difference. As cold air sweeps across the Sea of Japan it gathers moisture, rises over Hokkaido’s mountains, and releases it as the light, dry powder Niseko is famous for, a process confirmed by researchers at Hokkaido University and the Japan Meteorological Agency.¹

If you're not competitively chasing powder, the difference may matter less to you.

Vibe & Atmosphere

This is probably the biggest difference between the two. My experience in Hakuba felt more like a mountain town, where I could walk around at my own pace. In contrast, Niseko had a bit of a more unhinged energy, a sort of mesmerizing chaos that sometimes comes with the snow sports culture. Both draw in a lot of international visitors, but Niseko is way busier between the two.

For Non-Skiers

Hakuba actually surprised me with how much there was to do without skis. The highlight was riding the Iwatake gondola, where you can buy a tourist-only ticket to go up just for the Japanese Alps scenery, which is genuinely breathtaking. There are also more to walk around and see, such as the Hakuba Ohashi Bridge, and a walkable food and shopping scene around Happo-One and Echoland. I had a full three days without once feeling bored. (I wrote a full guide on what to do in Hakuba as a non-skier if you want the details.)

Niseko is harder to navigate as a non-skier in terms of structured activities, but I didn’t mind. My days had a slower rhythm, which I wrote about here. The days included long stretches at the onsen, wandering the Hirafu village, and stumbling across things I hadn’t planned on. Which leads me next to food.

Food and Drink

Hakuba has a solid izakaya scene, especially around Echoland. For lunch or dinner, Koiya is worth the visit if you like unagi don. It was probably the best unagi I’ve ever had.

Niseko, though, is where I had some of my most unexpected food moments of the entire Japan trip. Soup curry was a revelation that I did not expect. I’d had curry rice, curry udon, curry everything, but never soup curry. And then there’s Hokkaido milk. I don’t even drink milk at home, but I saw everyone at the hotel breakfast buffet pouring a glass and figured I’d try it. I went back for a second glass. Then I started buying it from convenience stores every day for the rest of the trip. Hokkaido produces around 50% of Japan’s milk, and you can absolutely taste why.

For drinks in Niseko, we found a speakeasy called Bar Gyu+ hidden behind a red sticker-covered fridge door in the Hirafu area. Inside, there are great whisky options and cozy cocktails. There’s a speakeasy in Hakuba, too, but I didn’t go as it seemed too high-end for what I was looking for.

One tip, though: Make reservations during the peak winter season for both Niseko and Hakuba.

So what’s the verdict? Niseko or Hakuba?

Choose Hakuba if:

• You are visiting Japan as part of a broader itinerary based on Honshu

• You are you a non-skier or beginner who wants structured sightseeing options

• You want easy connections to Tokyo, Nagano, or Matsumoto

Choose Niseko if you:

• You are a serious skier or snowboarder chasing world-class powder

• You don’t mind (or actively enjoy) a buzzy resort atmosphere

• You are already planning time in Hokkaido or Sapporo

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Hakuba or Niseko better for non-skiers?

Hakuba has a slight edge for non-skiers, with more structured sightseeing options like the Iwatake gondola, shrine walks, and accessible village shopping. Both are doable but Hakuba just has more to specifically direct a non-skier toward.

Which is more expensive, Hakuba or Niseko?

Both are pricier than other Japanese destinations in winter, as is typical for ski resorts. Niseko is generally the more expensive of the two, with higher accommodation costs driven in part by its international demand and luxury resort development. Hakuba tends to offer a wider range of budget-friendly accommodation and food options.

Can I visit both Hakuba and Niseko on one Japan trip?

You can, but they’re on different islands and not particularly close to each other. I’d recommend visit one per trip and save the other for your next Japan adventure.

Have you visited Hakuba, Niseko, or both? I’d love to hear how your experience compared.

¹ Inatsu, M., Kawazoe, S., & Mori, M. (2021). “Trends and projection of heavy snowfall in Hokkaido, Japan.” Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology, 60, 1483–1494.

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase—at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own and based on my personal travel experiences.

Contents of this Guide:

• Is Hakuba Worth Visiting Without Skiing or Snowboarding?

• Getting to and Around Hakuba Without a Car

• 3-Day Hakuba Itinerary (Without Skiing or Snowboarding)

  • Day 1: Arrival, Onsen & Echoland

  • Day 2: Shrines, Shopping, and Snow Peak Land

  • Day 3: Iwatake Gondola & Mountain Harbor

• Hakuba FAQ

  • Where to stay in Hakuba

Is Hakuba Worth Visiting Without Skiing or Snowboarding?

Yes, Hakuba is worth visiting even without skiing or snowboarding. The main draw is the beautiful mountain views, especially the ones at Iwatake Resort. With that said, since Hakuba is a ski town, food and lodging were a bit more expensive in the winter than in some other Japanese destinations. It is worth a stop, especially if you’re already visiting areas nearby such as Nagano or Matsumoto.

Getting to and Around Hakuba Without a Car

If you’re planning your own route into Hakuba, check out my guide here. Getting around Hakuba was easy even without a car. We stayed in Happo One and found that there were plenty of shops and restaurants that were walkable within 10-15 minutes. For further locations, we took the Hakuba Valley Shuttle Bus.

Hakuba Valley Shuttle Bus

The shuttle runs between all major ski resorts, including Happo-one, Iwatake, and Tsugaike, making it convenient to explore different areas each day. If you have a multi-resort lift pass, shuttle access is included.

Pricing:

• The shuttle bus costs 800 yen per ride when purchased online in advance. Online tickets must be used within one hour of purchase

• 1,000 yen when paying cash onboard.

How to Purchase:

Tickets can be bought by scanning QR codes posted at major bus stops or through the Hakuba Valley Shuttlebus site.

Night Transportation in Hakuba

The Hakuba Valley shuttle bus also operates a night bus with tickets at 500 yen if purchased online. Taxis are avaliable but there is a limited number of them. Our hotel recommended reserving them in advance, ideally at least a few hours ahead.

Things to Do in Hakuba Without Skiing or Snowboarding: 3-Day Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrival, Onsen & Echoland

Onsen

After checking into the Moegi hotel, the first amenity we took advantage of was the hotel's onsen. An onsen is a Japanese hot spring bath, that are traditionally fully undressed in facilities separated by gender. There are a couple of public ones that I did some research on, if your hotel doesn’t have one.

Echoland

Echoland is the main entertainment area in Hakuba, and has many restaurants, bars, and izakayas within walking distance. At Echoland, we ate dinner at AGURAYA, which is an izakaya that specializes in oden. My favorite was the burdock root wrapped in fish cake. While I was eating my meal, a group of about 8-9 young Aussies stopped in and asked to drink the snake liquor. It looked like some type of liquor with a whole snake infused in it. Honestly, it looked horrifying to see the snake floating in the bottle, as I am queasy around snakes. They asked the bartender to partake with them, and he joked back, “Nah, that stuff isn’t good for you”.

Bar hopping was a little harder than we expected, as we were doing this without a reservation. So if you are looking to go out during peak ski season, try to make a reservation if you can!

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Day 2 - Shrines, Shopping, Snow Peak Land Station

⛩️Shimofurimiyahosonosuwa Shrine 細野諏訪神社

Start the day in tranquility with a visit to the local shrine. It’s a small shrine, but it looked beautiful in the snow and was at least worth stopping by to admire.

The pathway is in front of the Unajune restaurant. You will see a wooden Tori gate along the path. I will link it in the map that I share about Hakuba. The steps were icy when I went, so snow cleats might have been helpful here.

📷Hakuba Ohashi Bridge

If you feel like continuing on this morning trek, walk to the Hakuba Ohashi Bridge that crosses over the Matsukawa River. You will be rewarded with another vantage point of the mountains with a riverbed covered in snow.

The Hakuba Ohashi Bridge takes about 30 minutes from Happo-One’s main area. The path to the bridge was more icy near the main Happo-One’s area, because there are no sidewalks, so the cars melt snow, which becomes ice by the next day. Once you leave the Happo-One main area, there are designated pedestrian walkways, and it is less slippery. I still found it to be a nice and relaxing morning stroll, even as I gingerly walked through the icy areas.

Lunch at Koiya

If you like unagi don or broiled eel with rice, I highly recommend getting lunch at Koiya. At dinner time, there can be a line, but when we went for lunch, we had no issues getting a table.

Snow Peak Land Station

A shopping stroll, even if it’s just to window shop, is a nice way to digest lunch. Unless you’re looking to buy any outerwear at full price, I would just check out Snow Peak Land Station. The architecture of the building is interesting, and you can enjoy a drink at Starbucks with a great view.

If you like Japanese drugstore cosmetics or want a greater selection of canned highballs, alcohol, etc., check out the drugstore chain Matsumoto Kiyoshi.

🛒Snow Peak Land Station area shopping

• Outerwear / Clothing: Snow Peak, Columbia, North Face

• Vintage: Kasamo Vintage

• Drug Store: Matsumoto Kiyoshi

While we opted to walk back to Happo-One (~20-30 minutes, flat terrain), you could take the bus or the JR line back.

🛒Happo-One area shopping

If Snow Peak Land Station wasn’t enough, these are some of the other shopping options in the Happo-One area:

• Outerwear or accessories: Oyuki, Rhythm

• Convenience Stores: Lawson’s

• Sake or Gifts: シオール白馬

Day 3 - Iwatake Resort and Mountain Harbor

Ride the Iwatake Gondola for the Views

No one says you can’t ride the gondola just for views. For a picturesque view of the Japanese Alps, head to Iwatake Resort. Purchase an adult tourist ticket (2900 yen in 2026) and ride the gondola up to Hakuba Mountain Resort.

After getting off the gondola, you will immediately be greeted with sweeping mountain views. It is hard not to pause and stare in awe at the Japanese Alps before you.

Activities at Iwatake Park (no skis or snowboards required)

At the summit, there are activities at the Iwatake White Park, such as:

• Yooho-Swing: Swing in front of the mountain scenery for 500 yen.

• Explore snow caves and snow walls

• City Bakery: A couple of the items actually sell out, so get there early if you want something specific, but I was very happy with my butter milk biscuit!

• Hakuba Mountain Harbor terrace: enjoy your snacks here and take pictures, including the Instagram-famous photo spot (featured on the cover photo of this post)

• A small souvenir shop inside the resort for some Hakuba-themed gifts

Chavaty Bakery via Chair Lift

After spending hours at the Iwatake White Park, take the 5 Line South Lift to descend to Chavaty Bakery. No additional lift tickets are required to use this lift. There are also great views here and plenty of outdoor seating options, and much less crowded than City Bakery.

If you’ve already had baked goods at City Bakery, then just come for the tea lattes and views. Once you’ve had your fill, ride the chair lift back up to get back to the main summit area. There are plenty of lunch options if you are looking for something substantial back at the main lodge or around the Iwatake White Park area.

After your adventure in Iwatake Park, enjoy the izakayas or onsen near the Happo-One area one last time.

Hakuba met my expectations this winter. While it’s definitely a ski town, there was plenty for me to do and beautiful mountain scenery that is easily accessible for a non-skier like me!

Frequently Asked Questions

Where to Stay in Hakuba?

Since my boyfriend wanted to ride the Happo-One lift, we decided to locate ourselves at Hotel Moegi so that it would be convenient when he hit the slopes early in the morning. The lifts are within minutes of the hotel, and the center of Happo One is within 10-15 minutes, making it easy to get to restaurants and shops.

Check out my experience at the Hotel Moegi in my YouTube short here. Hotel Moegi is a cute hotel with a nostalgic, older feel. We were treated kindly by the staff and found that it met all our needs at the price of ~$200 per night.

✅Pros:

• Breakfast sandwiches were delightful

• location was great( minutes to the lifts, close to food and bus station),

• ski/snowboard locker

• shuttle to/from the train or bus station when you arrive or depart

❌Cons:

• No elevators, only stairs

• The bathroom is a bit older, so it had a bit of a musky smell, but we used the public bath, so this wasn’t too much of an issue for us.

🏨Booking link for Hotel Moegi

Interactive Hakuba Map

To make it easier on your trip planning, I am sharing the locations that I spoke about in a Google Map list that might be helpful for your trip.

Do I need to be able to speak Japanese in Hakuba?

Unfortunately, the truth is that you will see more foreigners than Japanese people in Hakuba during the winter. So yes, while you can totally get by with Google Translate or another translation app, I always recommend learning at least basic greetings and simple phrases.

How Long Should I Stay in Hakuba in the Winter?

If you aren’t with any skiers or snowboarders, I’d say a visit to Hakuba for 1-2 days should be enough to hit the main attractions and onsen. However I had plenty of things to do for 3 days and could’ve stretched longer even. There are other activities like snowshoeing and tubing that I didn’t explore.

Other Hakuba Travel Planning Resources

📲 Stay Connected with eSIM

Would a packing list post be helpful? Message me or comment what your thoughts are!

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This is not a “best of” list. It’s a working map: places I researched, returned to, or kept as reliable fallbacks while I was out and about. You can open it so that it overlays to the Google Maps app on your phone, and you can save the list to your account as well. If you’ve never used the Google Map Lists feature before, check out my post here which outlines some starter tips.

What’s Inside the Travel Map

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The Google map list is organized with tags, so you can focus only on what you need when you click on a certain tag:

• ♨️ Onsen: my hotel already had one but I had bookmarked backups in case yours does not

• 🍜 Food: Restaurants, Izakayas, and places I ate at for meals or reliable standbys.

• 🚊Transit: Train stations and key transit points I used or noted for efficient travel.

• ☕️ Coffee & Bakeries: Coffee, tea and pastries

• 🍶 Bars & Wine: All izakayas can be considered drinking establishments but this is when the focus is on the drink more than the food

• Worth Seeing: Landmarks, neighborhoods, viewpoints, street art, and other places worth wandering past to at least take a photo

• 👣Walks & Wanders: places to stroll or meander by

• 🛒 Shopping: convenience stores, clothing, drugstores

Link to my map here: Explore Hakuba. Note this map was made when I travelled in the winter of 2026.

If you want additional information, feel free to check out some of my other blog posts that will go through some of these locations in more:

Let me know if you find this helpful in the comments.

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Pricing and logistics as of January 2026:

• Route: Haneda Airport -> Hakuba

• Season: Winter

• Duration: ~5.5 hours, with 2 rest stops

• Cost: ¥12,750 per person

Nagano Snow Shuttle Booking FAQ’s:

What size luggage can I bring? Can I bring my snowboard or skis on the Nagano Snow Shuttle?

Double-check the website for luggage size requirements. Our ticket came with 1 bag per person. Yes, you can bring your snowboard or skis, but it will count as a bag.

How much time should I plan for between snow shuttle boarding and arrival?

Give yourself a few hours between arrival at the airport and bus departure. The suggested transfer time on the Nagano Snow Shuttle website said 60-75 minutes, but I like to take my time and opted for 2-3 hours. This gives us time to meander and leisurely do the following:

• Clear customs and obtain luggage (1 hour - 1.5 hours).

  • If you are bringing snowboards or skis, you will need to pick them up in the oversized area. Look for the carousel covered in stickers that is along the wall near baggage claim F.

    

• Grab a snack (20-40 minutes)

• Transfer to Haneda Airport Terminal 3 if needed (15-20 minutes)

  • If your flight lands at Terminal 1 or 2, you can take the free terminal shuttle outside the arrival lobby. They run every 4-8 minutes.

  • International flights usually land in Terminal 3

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Clearing customs and grabbing bags took us about an hour, with most of the wait due to oversized bags. We also had to pre-fill out an electronic customs declaration and disembarking form online at the Visit Japan Web.

What is there to do while waiting at Haneda Airport?

Since we had extra time, we also explored the other floors at Terminal 3. On Floor 4 were many restaurants with outside decor in an Edo-period resemblance. On Floor 5, there was an observation deck overlooking part of the airfield and with the bay in the back.

Is riding the snow shuttle cheaper than the shinkansen?

No. However, it is hassle-free without worrying about lugging your luggage through multiple train transfers and will get you directly from the airport to the hotel.

On The Road: The Nagano Snow Shuttle Experience

Check-in for the Nagano Snow Shuttle opens 1 hour before departure and up to 15 minutes before departure. The check-in should be in the arrival lobby at Counter No. 9.

Look for the staff in purple “Nagano Snow Shuttle” jackets in front of the “Meeting Service” counters. Here’s a link to the map and instructions that were provided on the Nagano Snow Shuttle website.

We checked in the minute it opened so that we could leave the snowboard and luggage with the staff. They told us to meet back 20 minutes before the bus leaves, giving us some time to buy snacks or relieve ourselves before boarding the bus. Once it was time, we assembled at the counter to take our tagged luggage back, and were escorted by the staff downstairs to the charter bus area.

Low-key, I had expected a purple bus, but our ride today was a white Highland Express bus with the Alpico Group’s name on it. I am guessing they rent other charter buses as needed. The bus had comfortable seats and overhead space that could accommodate a small carry-on or backpacks that weren’t stowed away in the bus’s luggage compartment. There was WiFi and a small food tray. No charging ports on this one, though.

During our travel on the road, we were given two rest stops, one of which was at Kamisato Rest stop and the other at Oyaki Farm for some sampling.

Kamisato Rest Stop

Our bus driver wasn’t clear on how long the stop was. There were multiple people confused about when we had to report back, so most came back by 20 minutes in, but we didn’t leave until 30 minutes later.

Rest stop-wise, it was a big one with many buses rolling through. There were plenty of bathrooms, vending machines, and a lot of food options inside the rest stop. There were also a couple of food trucks outside. We helped ourselves to the free hot tea station inside the rest stop.

Oyaki Farm Stop

If you travel during the daytime on the Nagano Snow Shuttle and if the Oyaki Farm is open, you will get to experience a sampling of Oyaki, a popular cuisine in the Nagano prefecture. Oyaki is a stuffed bun made with a wide variety of fillings, and traditionally, they are cooked on a hot iron pan and then steamed on an open hearth to add a bit of smoky aroma.

We all received a free Oyaki coupon which we exchanged directly with shuttle staff. Our free Oyaki was a mixed vegetable flavor, and it was tasty! We bought more later on and our favorite flavors were the mushroom and salted potato.

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Arriving in Hakuba

We opted for the “drop off service,” so a shuttle dropped us off at Hakuba Base Camp, and we transferred to a smaller bus to get closer to our hotel, which is usually anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes. While it took about 5.5 hours to get to the Hakuba region, it took us another 15-20 minutes to actually get dropped off closer to our hotel (Hotel Moegi), which was located in the Happo One area.

Overall, after seeing the long shinkansen lines at Nagano Station full of riders in the winter, I probably would take a shuttle bus to Hakuba again for convenience. There may be other shuttle companies worth checking out, though!

Related Posts

I’m planning to write more posts - is there a specific part of the trip that you’re most curious about? Let me know in the comments!

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Here is the gallery from my Lisbon street art hunt through the city.

Exhibit 01 — Vhils x Shepard Fairey

Artist: Vhils (Alexandre Farto) and Shepard Fairey

Collab between two artists, one who uses a paint and the other chisels. This joint mural was definitely one of my favorites.

📍 Rua da Senhora da Glória 39, 1170-365 Lisboa, Portugal

Exhibit 02 — Two Maribou Storks

Artist: Bordalo II

Located right next to the Santa Justa lift. I was walking around at dusk when I found it randomly. This was where I learned about Bordalo II and how he uses recycled trash to make his street art.

📍 R. do Carmo 70, 1100-581 Lisboa, Portugal

Exhibit 03 — Half Young Panda

Artist: Bordalo II

A half panda that makes you ponder the cost of modern consumption.

📍 R. São Tomé 76, 1100-563 Lisboa, Portugal

Exhibit 04 — Big Raccoon

Artist: Bordalo II

The raccoon watches the street in Belem. Because the building where this piece was is set to be demolished, the piece has now been reinstalled as “Re-raccoon” and moved to Chelas, Lisbon in 2025. You can read more about it from this post here.

📍 moved to Chelas

Exhibit 05 — Poseidon

Artist: PichiAvo

We were in a car when I snapped this shot from the passenger window. It is located near the waterfront, which seemed like a fitting location for the Greek God of the Sea.

📍 Calçada de Santa Apolónia 65, 1100-468 Lisboa, Portugal

What are some of your favorite street art to see in Lisbon?

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This is not a “best of” list. It’s a working map: places I researched, returned to, or kept as reliable fallbacks while I was out and about. You can open it so that it overlays your Google Maps app on your phone, or you can make a copy of the map (instructions below).

What’s Inside the Travel Map

The map is organized into layers, so you can focus only on what you need:

• Food: Restaurants, tapas bars, and places I bookmarked for meals or reliable standbys.

• Sights to See: Landmarks, neighborhoods, viewpoints, street art, and other places worth wandering past to at least take a photo

• Rail: Train stations and key transit points I used or noted for efficient travel.

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Link to my map here: Lisbon POI. If you want additional information, feel free to check out some of my other blog posts that will go through some of these locations in more detail:

Make a Copy of the Google Map

Feel free to make a copy of the Google Map for your own use. The instructions below are for either a desktop or an internet browser on your phone.

1. If you are on a phone, open the map on another tab on your browser. Then click on the title of the map (it was on the bottom of the screen on my iPhone).

2. Click on the three dots next to the title of the map. This is on the left banner on a desktop.

3. Select ‘Copy Map”

4. Rename the map and save it to your Google Drive.

Let me know if you find this helpful in the comments.

Leave a comment

This is not a “best of” list. It’s a working map: places I researched, returned to, or kept as reliable fallbacks while I was out and about. You can open it so that it overlays your Google Maps app on your phone, or you can make a copy of the map (instructions below).

What’s Inside the Travel Map

The map is organized into layers, so you can focus only on what you need:

• Food: Restaurants, tapas bars, and places I bookmarked for meals or reliable standbys.

• Sights to See: Landmarks, neighborhoods, viewpoints, museums, and places worth wandering past to at least take a photo

• Rail : Train stations and key transit points I used or noted for getting around efficiently.

Subscribe now

Link to my map here: Seville POI. If you want additional information, feel free to check out some of my other blog posts that will go through some of these locations in more detail:

Make a Copy of the Google Map

Feel free to make a copy of the Google Map for your own use. The instructions below are for either destop or an internet browser on your phone.

1. If you are on a phone, open the map on another tab on your browser. Then click on the title of the map (it was on the bottom of the screen on my iPhone).

2. Click on the three dots next to the title of the map. This is on the left banner on a desktop.

3. Select ‘Copy Map”

4. Rename the map and save it to your Google Drive.

Let me know if you find this helpful in the comments.

Leave a comment

This is not a “best of” list. It’s a working map: places I researched, returned to, or kept as reliable fallbacks while I was out and about. You can open it so that it overlays your Google Maps app on your phone, or you can make a copy of the map (instructions below).

What’s Inside the Travel Map

The map is organized into layers, so you can focus only on what you need:

• Food: Restaurants and places I bookmarked for meals or reliable standbys.

• Bars: Tapas and cocktail bars will be in here

• Sights to See: Landmarks, neighborhoods, viewpoints, museums, and places worth wandering past to at least take a photo

• Rail : Train stations and key transit points I used or noted for getting around efficiently.

Subscribe now

Link to my map here: Barcelona POI. Details on my itinerary in the blog post below:

Make a Copy of the Google Map

Feel free to make a copy of the Google Map for your own use. The instructions below are for either destop or an internet browser on your phone.

1. If you are on a phone, open the map on another tab on your browser. Then click on the title of the map (it was on the bottom of the screen on my iPhone).

2. Click on the three dots next to the title of the map. This is on the left banner on a desktop.

3. Select ‘Copy Map”

4. Rename the map and save it to your Google Drive.

Let me know if you find this helpful in the comments.

Leave a comment

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase—at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own and based on my personal travel experiences.

A Note about Siesta

From 2-5PM, some businesses may close so that people are able to take a late lunch break or nap. I chose to nap at that time to conserve energy for the later.

Table of Contents

• Day 1: La Sagrada Familia

• Day 2: The Gothic Quarter, La Rambla, Passeig de Gracia and Picasso

• Day 3: Montserrat

• Day 4: Park Guell and Barceloneta Beach

• Frequently Asked Questions

Barcelona 4-Day Itinerary

Day 1: La Sagrada Familia

La Sagrada Família

Begin the trip with a visit to Barcelona’s most famous landmark, La Sagrada Família. Designed by Antoni Gaudí, this beautiful basilica was still under construction when I visited in 2024. It has been over 140 years since the project started. They have guided tours, but I opted to just wander the church at my own pace.

If you don’t have claustrophobia, I recommend checking out a tower. You take a lift to go up, and then have to walk down a long spiral cramped staircase. The Nativity Facade is 180 ft while the Passion Facade is 246 ft. The Passion Facade is dedicated to the death of Jesus while the Nativity facade represents the birth and early life of Jesus.

• Where to Purchase: Official Sagrada Família Website
  Pro Tip: Book your tickets in advance

Bar Paradiso

After a day of sightseeing, and if a nice cocktail sounds like a good idea, it’s time to consider entering the queue at Paradiso. This speakeasy ranked among the world’s best bars. Located behind a deli, Paradiso features creative cocktails with fantastic showmanship. In the afternoon at around 3 PM, Paradiso will put out a street sign with a QR code to get into line at Paradiso. I highly suggest hopping on sometime in the early afternoon, and then going somewhere nearby for dinner or snacks while waiting to be called.

We ordered the “On Fire”, a milk-washed bourbon cocktail that was smoked with a blue laser. Unfortunately, my biggest blunder of the night was holding my phone but forgetting to push record so I have no footage of the laser show.

Bodega La Puntual

For dinner (or while waiting for Paradiso to call you back), head to Bodega La Puntual, a traditional Catalan restaurant known for its tapas and wine. I recommend trying the grilled octopus Andalusian style, and the vinegar anchovies. They also had a special on the menu that I translated as pork jowl confit with an egg - also super delicious.

Day 2: The Gothic Quarter, La Rambla, Passeig de Gracia, and Picasso

Mercado de La Boqueria

Start off the morning at the Mercado de La Boqueria, Barcelona’s most famous market. Wander through the stalls offering fresh produce, seafood, and more. I highly recommend trying some of the jamón ibérico while you are there.

Explore La Rambla

Right next to the market is La Rambla, which is the main pedestrian street filled with restaurants and shops. Order yourself “un cafe con leche por favor” at a nearby coffee shop or head to the next stop.

Gaudí’s Casa Batlló and Casa Milà

Meander towards Passeig de Gràcia to admire two of Gaudí’s masterpieces: Casa Batlló and Casa Milà. While it is possible to pay and enter these buildings, even the exterior designs are mesmerizing to look at from afar.

Picasso Museum

After you’ve refreshed yourself, pay a visit to the Picasso Museum, which holds an extensive collection of Pablo Picasso’s works. I really enjoyed how the museum highlighted Picasso’s early years and artistic evolution. We decided to buy our tickets in advance since it was a must-visit on our trip.

• Where to Purchase: Museu Picasso Website

Dinner at El Chigre 1769

End your day with dinner at El Chigre 1769, located in the El Born neighborhood and is a blend of Catalan and Asturian cuisine. I tried both of their vermouths on tap and really enjoyed the bone marrow and white artichoke. The patatas with queso cabrales (potatoes with cheese) had too much blue cheese for me, but I was never a blue cheese girl anyway.

Day 3: Day Trip to Montserrat

Pick up a sandwich on your way to the train station when you start your morning. There is food at Montserrat, but not a lot of options, so it’s better to pack a lunch.

Montserrat Monastery

Take a day trip to Montserrat, a stunning mountain range that lies about an hour away from Barcelona. I chose to hike up to Montserrat from the train following this guide and was rewarded with breathtaking mountain views. It was a total of 2.89 miles with 1,890 ft elevation gain from when I had started tracking on All Trails.

If you’re not fond of hiking, the monastery is also accessible by the public transportation. If you go inside the Santa Maria de Montserrat Monastery, you will get to see the famous Black Madonna statue. The day we were there, there were also some market stalls set up with people selling local honey. Visiting Montserrat was a nice change of pace compared to the city life in Barcelona. And the hike was probably my favorite part.

How to Get There: Take the R5 train from Plaça d’Espanya to Monistrol de Montserrat. Tickets can be purchased the day before Plaça d’Espanya if desired. Once you arrive at Monistrol de Montserrat, you will start your hike through town and up the mountain.

Cable Car Down
After you have explored Montserrat, take the cable car back down the mountain and enjoy the scenic view.

Day 4: Park Güell & Barceloneta Beach

Park Güell

On the last day, head to Park Güell, which is another of Gaudí’s masterpieces. This whimsical park is filled with colorful mosaics, quirky sculptures, and stunning views of the city.

• Where to Purchase: Park Güell Official Website

Barceloneta Beach

End your Barcelona adventure with some relaxation at Barceloneta Beach.

Dinner at Cafe Amalia

I highly recommend making a reservation at this elevated Catalonian restaurant. Everything was cooked to a perfect temperature and consistency. Save room for the house-made cheesecake!

Frequently Asked Questions

When to Visit Barcelona

I traveled to Barcelona in May. The weather was already warm, and we definitely felt the heat. I think if I went again, I would try to go maybe earlier in Spring so that it’s slightly cooler.

How many days do you need in Barcelona?

We spent four days in Barcelona and thought it was the perfect amount of time. We hit all the major attractions (La Sagrada Familia, Park Güell, the Gothic Quarter, plus a day trip to Montserrat) and still had time to explore at a relaxed pace without feeling rushed.

If you have less time, you could see the main highlights in 2-3 days, but you’d miss out on leisurely meals and wandering the neighborhoods.

How to Navigate Barcelona

To make it easier on your trip planning, I am sharing the locations that I spoke about in this blog post (and some extras) that might be helpful for your trip to Barcelona in the Google Map below:

Where to Stay in Barcelona

I decided to stay in the Gracia neighborhood because I wanted a more neighborhood vibe, but still accessible to public transportation. I stayed at Sonder La Casa Del Sol Hotel Gracia.

✅Pros: lively, charming, bohemian vibes, has a little rooftop, rooms have a balcony. Plenty of room for two humans, in my opinion.
❌Cons: not for those looking for peace and quiet…

🏨Book Sonder La Casa Del Sol Hotel Gracia | 📽️Video of my room

Do I need to be able to speak Spanish or Catalan in Barcelona?

You can get by with Google Translate or another translation app, but I recommend learning at least basic greetings and simple phrases. It’s polite, and people genuinely appreciate the effort. Don’t assume everyone speaks English.

During my hike to Montserrat, people greeted us with “Bon Dia” (Good Morning in Catalan) as they walked past. Learning a few phrases like this made interactions much more pleasant.

Some helpful phrases to start:

• Bon dia: Good morning (Catalan)

• Gràcies/Gracias: (Catalan/Spanish)

• Perdó/Perdón: Excuse me (Catalan/Spanish)

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Base #1: Barcelona (4 Days)

Barcelona deserves at least four days to explore its world-renowned Gaudí architecture and vibrant neighborhoods. The city is easily navigable using public transportation and walking.

Day Trip to Montserrat

This stunning mountain monastery is just one hour from Barcelona by train, followed by a scenic cable car ride to the top. For a more adventurous experience, you can hike up instead of taking the cable car.

→ For a full breakdown of how to spend your time in Barcelona including the day trip to Montserrat, read the complete 4-Day Barcelona guide:

Base #2: Seville (2-3 Days)

Seville is compact, walkable, and rich with history. To get from Barcelona to Seville, you can take a high-speed train (~6 hours) from the Barcelona station. I booked my tickets through Iryo.

Inside the train, there is a hook on the seat in front for you to hang a small bag, and there are trays to bring down as well. Make sure you give yourself ample time to navigate through the large Barcelona station.

Iryo Website: https://iryo.eu/en/home

Seville is walkable, and honestly, walking was sometimes faster than using public transportation.

→ See my full Seville guide for more details on where to go and where to eat:

Base #3 Lisbon (2-3 Days)

Flying made the most sense for this leg of the trip and only takes about an hour. Lisbon is highly walkable, and we navigated most of the city using public transportation with occasional Ubers when needed.

→ Browse my Lisbon travel guide

Day Trip to Sintra

Just one hour by train from Lisbon, Sintra is a must-visit for castle lovers. The colorful Pena Palace and the dramatic Castle of the Moors offer stunning architecture and panoramic views that make this day trip unforgettable.

→ Read my day trip to Sintra from Lisbon guide:

This 9-day route through Spain and Portugal balances iconic sights with enough downtime to truly experience each city. By focusing on three strategic bases, you'll minimize transit time and maximize exploration. Ready to start planning your trip?

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Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase—at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own and based on my personal travel experiences.

Seville is a charming, romantic town located in the Southern part of Spain. The architecture was beautiful, and the slower pace was a welcome change from the bustling city of Barcelona. Here’s what I did during my 3-day stay, and some tips to make your travel more enjoyable in Seville:

Day 1: Las Setas de Sevilla

Day 2: Alacazar, Giralda Bell Tower, Santa Cruz and Plaza de España

Day 3: Market hopping

Day 1 Itinerary

After taking the train from Barcelona to Seville, we went straight to our lodging in Triana, a neighborhood across the river from the city center.

Where to Stay (Triana!)

We had wanted to stay nearer to the Triana market and get away from being in the city center, which was giving touristy. It was near the Triana bridge, so it was easy enough to get to all of the attractions. We loved our stay at the La Silleria de Triana, which was spacious and had a modern, clean feel.

Walk across the Triana Bridge

After check-in, we crossed the Triana bridge to get to the center of Seville and stopped by a random bar. The kitchen was closed at the time for siesta, so only cold foods were available. After three years of Spanish in high school and a couple of months on Duolingo, my Spanish was limited at best, and my knowledge of Spanish cuisine even less so. I ordered the salmorejo con jamón y huevo, thinking I was getting some type of charcuterie, but I was pleasantly surprised with a cold tomato soup topped with ham and egg bites.

Visit Las Setas de Sevilla during Sunset

Las Setas de Sevilla is a massive wooden structure in the shape of giant mushrooms. At the top is a fantastic viewing platform that overlooks the Seville cityscape. When we arrived, we first watched their video of “Feeling Sevilla” and then found a good spot to watch the sunset. At dusk, the las setas (mushrooms) begin to light up in vivid colors, and you can also observe the swifts swooping back down to their nests that were in the slits of the Setas. Sunset is undoubtedly the best time to visit, even though it was crowded, as you can experience all of this in one visit.

Tapas: Caracoles

The first thing on my list of to-do culinary experiences in Seville was to try their caracoles that were in season (usually from April to June). Prepare to use your hands, muster up some courage if needed, and then slurp the snail like a vacuum. If you need a snail place with chill local vibes, check out Bar Casa Ruperto.

Day 2 Itinerary

Real Alcázar of Seville

This is a must-visit. The Royal Palace of Seville is known for its beautiful architecture and has been featured in famous TV shows and films, such as Game of Thrones (Water Gardens of Dorne). We wandered around here for hours, feeling like we stepped back in time while admiring the intricate designs on the walls and the ceilings. Outside the palace, you could get lost in the vast garden and observe the peacocks trying to impress the peahens. This place gets pretty crowded, so we recommend going as early as possible.

Cathedral of Seville & Santa Cruz

We stopped by the Cathedral of Seville to snap photos of the Giralda bell tower and wandered around the charming streets in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. Then I would recommend the Bodeguita Romero if you are feeling tapas for lunch.

Plaza De Espana

Plaza De Espana is a bit out of the way and a trek to get to in the heat, but if you are a Star Wars fan, you might recognize the plaza from this scene from Attack of the Clones:

We mostly stayed under the structure to stay cool in the shade and watched a street performance by a flamenco dancer.

Siesta, then more tapas

Some of the local spots shut down during siesta, and the streets got really quiet in Triana, so we also took a nap during siesta time. In the evening, we enjoyed more tapas at Blanco Paloma and Bar Amarra.

For more on where to eat, check out my blog post:

Day 3 Itinerary

I spent the last day just checking out the markets leisurely, in search of snacks.

Mercado de Triana

This place was a mere 10-minute walk from where we stayed. There are places to eat and stands selling fish, ham, and fruit. We went early, so not all places were open yet, but we ended up ordering the fried fish platter at Bar La Muralla, which consisted of shrimp, squid, boquerones (anchovies), cod, and what may have been a crab cake? Our favorites from the sampler platter were the cod and the anchovies. On our way out, we bought some ham from Jamoneria Jose Luis Romero.

Mercado de la Encarnación

This market is located under Las Setas, so in hindsight, you could also visit it before going to Las Setas if you wanted to. However, since we dedicated a full day to market hopping and wanted to see Las Setas in full light, we came back to get some coffee and eat more snacks from the market. The Mercado de la Encarnación has wider walkways and a little bit of a newer look in comparison to the traditional Mercado de Triana.

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Blanco Paloma

My favorite dish was the langostinos con aguacate, which was shrimp and avocado seared in garlicky olive oil served on a sizzling hot plate. It was worth risking my minor avocado allergy for it, especially since I haven’t had any reactions from the avocados in Spain. The salmorejo con guarnición was also enjoyable here.

Bar Amarra

This place is famous for their deep fried baby shrimp fritter that they call the tortillitas de camarones. Have it as a snack with some cold drink.

Bar Casa Ruperto

Bar Casa Ruperto is a no-frills, no-nonsense old-school bar. They write your bill on the chalkboard behind them, and you can cash out after you’ve had your fill of their delicious tapas. At Bar Casa Ruperto, we ordered caracoles snails cooked two ways and fried quail to start, and posted up at one of the standing tables outside. For our second round, we added the toasted Montadito con Jamón sandwich to our chalkboard tab just to have some carbs. Highly recommend the snails that come in the broth if they are in season here.

Bodeguita Romero

My favorite here was the chuletas de cordero lechal, a simply seasoned suckling lamb chop cooked to tender perfection. The runner-up was the carrilera iberica, which is a stewed Iberian pork cheek that melted in my mouth. Iberian pigs are a black pig that is native to the Iberian peninsula and are sometimes referred to as the “Wagyu of Pork”; therefore are a must-try in Spain.

We saw everyone order a pringa and since it was only a few euros at the time, we copied them. The pringa is a sandwich with tender pork cooked in fat, and the smaller size (in comparison to American sandwiches) makes it easy to add to any meal.

Gelato at Mito’s

Need a cold snack? Stop here to get a gelato. I had a pistachio gelato with a cookie and it revitalized my soul.

Snacks at the Local Markets

Last but not least, a trip is not complete without snacking at the local markets. Check out Mercado de Triana and Mercado de la Encarnación. We ordered a fried fish sampler, and our favorites from the platter were the boquerones (fresh anchovies) and the cod.

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Looking for ideas on things to do and where to go in Seville? Check out my post here:

I don’t snowboard or ski, but I came to Niseko with my partner to enjoy the sights and the sauna. While they snowboarded for hours, I had a much slower and cozier kind of rhythm. I would wander around, spend time at the spa and sauna, or gaze through the window looking at the beautiful snow-draped scenery outside. The minute the sun broke through the clouds, I ran outside to snap photos of the mountains. Here are some of the highlights of my few days in Niseko that I think back upon from time to time.

• Staying Near The Grand Hirafu Lift

• Hokkaido Milk

• Japanese Snow Fairy

• Soup Curry

• Drinks at the Speakeasy Bar Gyu+

Disclosure: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase—at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own and based on my personal travel experiences.

Staying Near The Grand Hirafu Lift

This was more for my partner than it was for me, but it saved him time and energy by avoiding a long trek to the lift. We stayed at the Niseko Park Hotel, which was an easy walk with a slight incline to the Grand Hirafu ski lift. Niseko Park Hotel had all of the basic amenities that you would need for a skiing or snowboarding trip, and the onsen facilities were spacious and a welcome retreat from the cold outdoors. Our booking included a breakfast buffet, which I enjoyed will expand more when I talk about Hokkaido milk.

Hokkaido Milk

My favorite discovery from our hotel breakfast buffet was, surprisingly, Hokkaido milk. I don’t drink milk regularly at home, but I saw everyone getting a glass from the pitcher, so I figured, why not? The milk was super rich and creamy, and had me going back for a second glass. Milk became a regular purchase from the convenience stores after that discovery on this trip. Apparently, Hokkaido produces 50% of Japan’s milk production1.

Japanese Snow Fairy

In the Hirafu area, there was a souvenir store that sold all sorts of merchandise of a little fluffy white bird. Turns out it was based on a real bird species called the Shima Enagma, which is also known as the Japanese Snow Fairy. They are found in the Hokkaido region, and during the winter, their feathers puff up so that they stay warm, making them look like a little snowball. Alas, I never saw a real one during my visit, even though I stared very hard into the trees.

Soup Curry at Tsubara Tsubara

I didn’t come to Niseko to eat. However, hands down my absolute favorite food discovery in Niseko was soup curry. I’ve had plenty of curry rice, curry udon, curry everything, never soup curry. It was a warming bowl with slightly charred vegetables and delicious broth. Try the meatball one at Tsubara Tsubara, I don’t think you will regret it.

Tsubara Tsubara website: https://niseko-soupcurry.com/

Drinks at the Speakeasy Bar Gyu+

Finding speakeasies to drink at is always a fun adventure for us. To find Bar Gyu+, look for a red fridge door with a bunch of stickers. Inside the bar, there is a wonderful view of the snow falling from inside. There are many cocktail options, as well as plenty of whiskies. I ended up getting a Nikka Hot Toddy, which I enjoyed after being out in the cold.

Bar Gyu+ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bar_gyu/

Niseko was a great winter retreat for me, even if I didn’t snowboard or ski. I dream of the Hokkaido milk and soup curry often, and I think fondly of the discoveries made during this trip.

After checking off all the major tourist spots in Vancouver over the years, I decided to base myself in Richmond, BC this trip to focus on what this neighborhood does best — authentic Chinese food. From cheese coins at the Richmond Night Market to roast pork at HK BBQ Master, here are the highlights from my summer 2025 food adventure.

Richmond Night Market

I travelled in the summer of 2025 and stayed at the Westin Wall Center. I wanted to be within walking distance of the Richmond Night Market, which was a mere 10-15 minute walk from the hotel. Most vendors preferred cash, so we made sure to withdraw some Canadian dollars before arriving. My favorites this year were the cheese coin and the garlic beef bone marrow.

The wait for our skewers was a bit long, so to me it wasn’t worth the wait. I’d suggest visiting late at night to avoid the crowds, but note that prices are a bit high, making it more of a fun, once-in-a-while experience more than a must-do on every trip.

HK BBQ Master

We arrived at HK BBQ Master about 15 minutes before opening on a Saturday and were one of the first groups in line. My mouth was watering as I looked through the window at the glistening pork and duck. We ordered:

• Combo plate: Roast pork and soya chicken

• A plate of roast duck

My personal favorite was actually the roast pork because of how crispy the skin was and the juiciness of the pork. The roast duck and soya chicken were also both enjoyable, to be honest. If there is something that is a must-order with every meal, however, it’d be the soup. Having a cup of broth to balance the rice and rich meats was absolutely game-changing.

Lido Restaurant

This Hong Kong style cafe is most famous for the pineapple buns that come with a generous slab of butter in between (and yes, there is even a double butter option). Some of the combos came with coffee/tea, so we opted for the Hong Kong milk tea. My favorite thing we had ordered was actually the French toast, followed by their pineapple bun.

Tip: Lido is cash-only.

Po Tat at Saint Germain Bakery

There are many bakeries in Richmond, so we searched for our favorite po tat, or sometimes known as the Macau version of the Portuguese egg tart. Out of the ones we tried, Saint Germain Bakery was our favorite. They have a couple of locations around Richmond inside the shopping areas. The po tat’s crust was flaky perfection. I even brought some home for my sister, who’s usually a dan tat (Cantonese egg tart) fan — and she admitted the po tat won this round.

Dim Sum at Yue Restaurant

First off, this was probably the most upscale dim sum restaurant I had personally experienced. The teapot had its own personal heater! We arrived on a Sunday morning just before opening and barely made it in for the first seating — so reserve ahead or line up at least 15 minutes early.

While the prices reflected the experience, this is currently my favorite dim sum restaurant in Vancouver B.C. out of the ones I have tried. My must-order recommendations at Yue Restaurant are:

• Spare ribs

• Shu mai (pork dumplings)

If you’re visiting Vancouver, BC, don’t overlook Richmond — it’s a paradise for food lovers, especially if you crave authentic Chinese flavors. I’ll definitely be back.

Getting to Sintra from Lisbon

From Lisbon’s Rossio station, it takes 40-45 minutes to get to Sintra. The trains depart frequently and at the time of this article, a round trip ticket was only €5.00. My suggestion is to get to Sintra by 9 AM to avoid the crowds and ensure that you get to Pena Palace before it opens at 9:30 AM.

Once you arrive, ignore all the tuk-tuks and take an Uber (approx. €6-10) to Pena Palace. There should be no traffic at this time. You can also choose to hike 45-60 minutes uphill.

Pena Palace

Pena Palace is a colorful UNESCO World Heritage site that looks like it was inspired by a child’s fairy tale castle. As it is the top attraction in Sintra, it is highly suggested to go here first and take all the photos you want before the crowd comes.

While you could pay extra to visit the interior, I chose to only explore the terrace to make the best use of my time. Doing this early allowed me to have the terrace nearly to myself early in the morning while people went to explore inside. 

Cost: €7.50 

Where to purchase: Parques de Sintra - Pena Palace

I bought it online to skip the ticket queue, but you can choose to buy it directly too. If you are going to visit other Parques de Sintra, double-check to see if they are still doing the combo ticket deal to save some money!

Castelo dos Mouros

A short five-minute walk down the road from Pena Palace’s entrance brought us to the Moorish Castle. There’s a bit of a hike as you traverse up the steps, but the payoff is incredible views and an adventure into history. The ancient castle ruins run along a ridge, offering breathtaking panoramas of the Sintra hills and of Pena Palace from below.

While navigating the castle’s paths and stairways, we got a pro tip from a stranger: As you near the castle’s highest point, take the left path instead of going straight up the stairs to enjoy a gentler climb up and use the stairs on your way down. This small adjustment made the hike easier, and the views were even better from this route!

Cost: €7.50 

Where to purchase tickets: Parques de Sintra - Moorish Castle

Lunch

From the Castle of the Moors to get back to town, follow the yellow and red line markers to get back to the historic center. 

Ignore the ones with the X’s. I almost went down one X path until I saw a barbed fence blocking off the path.

Once you get back to town, find yourself some lunch and wander around I tried the travesseiros at Casa Piriquita, which is a classic treat to get at Sintra. It was a bit too sweet for me, but I am more of a savory girl anyway. I also ate at a quaint spot called Villa 6 and had a delightful meal. I ordered the preggo (a classic Portuguese steak sandwich with garlic and buttered toast), cod cakes, and codfish toast with mussels. All three dishes exceeded my expectations and tasted amazing with Porto Tonicos, a twist on the classic gin and tonic made with white port.

Quinta da Regaleira 

After lunch, we decided to visit Quinta da Regaleira, home to the famous Initiation Well. This intriguing well has a winding staircase that spirals down into an underground network of tunnels, which might have been used for escape rooms or something in the past. 

Though the well was interesting, I found this visit a bit tiring and not necessarily worth staying out in the heat for. If you’re short on time or energy, you might choose to skip this stop or save it for a future trip.

Cost: €10 for entry. 

Combo tickets may be available if you’re visiting other attractions in Sintra.

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