What I Discovered in Niseko: Hokkaido Milk, Snow Fairies, Soup Curry & a Speakeasy
A winter wander log for a non-skier/non-snowboarder that made Niseko unforgettable.
I don’t snowboard or ski, but I came to Niseko with my partner to enjoy the sights and the sauna. While they snowboarded for hours, I had a much slower and cozier kind of rhythm. I would wander around, spend time at the spa and sauna, or gaze through the window looking at the beautiful snow-draped scenery outside. The minute the sun broke through the clouds, I ran outside to snap photos of the mountains. Here are some of the highlights of my few days in Niseko that I think back upon from time to time.
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Staying Near The Grand Hirafu Lift
This was more for my partner than it was for me, but it saved him time and energy by avoiding a long trek to the lift. We stayed at the Niseko Park Hotel, which was an easy walk with a slight incline to the Grand Hirafu ski lift. Niseko Park Hotel had all of the basic amenities that you would need for a skiing or snowboarding trip, and the onsen facilities were spacious and a welcome retreat from the cold outside. Our booking included a breakfast buffet, which I enjoyed will expand more when I talk about Hokkaido milk.
Hokkaido Milk
My favorite discovery from our hotel breakfast buffet was, surprisingly, Hokkaido milk. I don’t drink milk regularly at home, but I saw everyone getting a glass from the pitcher, so I figured, why not? The milk was super rich and creamy, and had me going back for a second glass. Milk became a regular purchase from the convenience stores after that discovery on this trip. Apparently, Hokkaido produces 50% of Japan’s milk production1.
Japanese Snow Fairy
In the Hirafu area, there was a souvenir store that sold all sorts of merchandise of a little fluffy white bird. Turns out it was based on a real bird species called the Shima Enagma, which is also known as the Japanese Snow Fairy. They are found in the Hokkaido region, and during the winter, their feathers puff up so that they stay warm, making them look like a little snowball. Alas, I never saw a real one during my visit, even though I stared very hard into the trees.
Soup Curry at Tsubara Tsubara
I didn’t come to Niseko to eat. However, hands down my absolute favorite food discovery in Niseko was soup curry. I’ve had plenty of curry rice, curry udon, curry everything, never soup curry. It was a warming bowl with slightly charred vegetables and delicious broth. Try the meatball one at Tsubara Tsubara, I don’t think you will regret it.
Tsubara Tsubara website: https://niseko-soupcurry.com/
Drinks at the Speakeasy Bar Gyu+
Finding speakeasies to drink at is always a fun adventure for us. To find Bar Gyu+, look for a red fridge door with a bunch of stickers. Inside the bar, there is a wonderful view of the snow falling from inside. There are many cocktail options, as well as plenty of whiskies. I ended up getting a Nikka Hot Toddy, which I enjoyed after being out in the cold.
Bar Gyu+ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/bar_gyu/
Niseko was a great winter retreat for me, even if I didn’t snowboard or ski. I dream of the Hokkaido milk and soup curry often, and I think fondly of the discoveries made during this trip.
“Try Hokkaido Milk Right Where It Came From.” Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), www.japan.travel/en/ph/special-features/hokkaido-milk/.